The strong trade winds took a break yesterday but we still had advisory level waves so I paddled out at my favorite north shore wave.
I was surfing alone and it was hard to figure the best take off spot.
I dropped in on a few bombs that closed out after a long clean drop.
By the time I finally figured out the best place to sit and I got some sweet right handers my shoulder was starting to ache and I figured that I would look for a nice left hander to take me closer to the launch.
Well it wasn’t long until I got what I was looking for.
I was sitting a little deep when this wave came out of nowhere and it was sporting a steep smooth left shoulder. I really didn’t have to paddle very hard for it at all. I held up for a big bottom turn and a nice hit near the lip and then a long glide to the end. I must admit I thought to myself, ”I sure hope someone saw that wave ride”.
I figured since I was that close to the channel I would just paddle in.
The inside passage isn’t always the best plan since the rocks are just under the surface and the currents are very unpredictable in that area. But all went well and it was pretty easy.
I had been out there for about an hour and a half all by myself and I was getting cold and tired.
As I was paddling in two of my friends were paddling out and we exchange howdi’s.
When I got to the beach two more of my pals were getting ready to paddle out.
Then another showed and the two more and then a group of celebrities showed up. I’m not mentioning names but I you watch any movies you would recognize their names.
I sort of wished that I had put on a wet suit top and paddled back out and joined my bro's for a second sesh. But like I said, my shoulder was feeling a bit sore and I had already snagged some rides.
I changed and got my camera and beer. As usual my images are blurred due to my limited telephoto power.